Dad's Way Or The Highway. Literally.

Hello from Tiberias!

It is our first full day here in the resort town of Tiberias along the coast of the Sea of Galilee.  Although it is a "resort town", don't be fooled into thinking we are relaxing on the beach. Nope!  We are staying at a hostel, cycling around the city, the Sea of Galilee and the surrounding area for the next four days.

Getting to Tiberias was a tiring journey.   We started early in the morning while it was sprinkling outside.  We had all of our rain gear on (matching yellow jackets, yellow helmet covers, black rain pants) and I was hoping that we wouldn't get hit too hard by the rain, but before we knew it, we were drenched.  The rain came down fast, hard, and it didn't stop for the first 20 km of our journey.  During this time of heavy rain, we were cycling on a bike path.   Usually this is a good thing because it means we don't have to deal with traffic.  However, on this particular morning, it seems 400 people decided they wanted to go out for a run.  We were basically bombarded by a large group of runners that must've been part of a running club or something.  They were coming at us, looking down, not thinking there could be two cyclist coming at them from the opposite direction.  I spent a lot of time cycling off the path, then getting back on because people just wouldn't move!  Honestly I think some of them were so shocked by the site of two Paddington Bear Look-a-Likes on bicycles coming at them that they couldn't move in time.    There was a lot of muttering under my breath during this period.

By 10:30 AM, we had gone quite a distance considering the weather, but we had to stop to eat the ice cream that we had bought the night before and never had time to eat.  Dad figured that if he wrapped it up, we would have two hours before it completely melted.  So, there we were in a bus shelter while the rain came pouring down, soaking wet, eating ice cream like it was our job.  While we were in the bus shelter, the rain stopped and I was boiling hot.  Instead of changing on the side of the highway (which is usually the case), I was able to strip off some layers before we got going again.  The weather changed so much that day that this was the first of many "costume changes" as I like to call them for the day.

Despite going down in elevation overall for the day, it was a very hilly ride filled with lots of ups and downs.  We made a stop at Korazim, an archaeological site mentioned in the New Testament as a city condemned by Jesus for rejecting him.  It is located on the north side of the Sea of Galilee. We visited the ruins and then kept on following the road that would lead us to the Sea of Galilee, and eventually to Tiberias.

Ruins of the city

housing quarters

Used for making olive oil

Viewpoint from the city overlooking the Sea of Galilee

As I've mentioned in earlier posts, although it is physically challenging to ride our bikes every day, I find the traffic and the navigation aspect of it all more stressful.  We had a lot of moments during our journey where the shoulders were very small or non-existent making the traffic a bit scarier, and we had to make sure we were going in the right direction multiple times.  We have become quite reliant on my phone for directions.  Obviously, I use the "maps" application which tells us where we are located and shows a map of where we need to go.  Dad still refers to this as "the magic box". We will stop and he will say "I'm not sure exactly if this is the turn we need to take, can you look it up in the magic box?".  After trying to correct him over and over again saying "Dad, it's just my phone", I eventually just gave up.

Thanks to the "magic box", we made it to our hostel.  It was basically a construction zone because there were four men building a new door for the building and it was quite the mess.  We had a nap before going out for dinner because I could barely keep my eyes open.  We had dinner at a place nearby (Dad had lamb meatballs and said it was one of the best meals he's had on this trip) and I had a little coffee afterwards.  One place that I really like in Israel is a coffee shop called "cofix".  It's a place where everything on the menu is 5 shekels (about $1.75).  It makes it really easy to order and figure things out as a foreigner because it is a limited menu and I always know how much money I will need.,  It's like a dollar store for coffee-I love it!

Our big adventure for the night was a trip to the hot springs.  Sounds exciting, right? It was, to this day, perhaps the most random two hours of my life.  This trip was organized by the hostel and we understood that our transportation would be provided, all we needed to bring was our bathing suits.  We were supposed to leave at 8:00 PM but they needed a few more people to join the trip in order for it to go.  Ok, not a big deal.  At 8:00 (when I really just wanted to be in bed), I went out to ask the receptionist if we were able to go.  She said she would know in a few minutes.  This is when I started to get frustrated because, honestly, it's 8:00, how can you still not know?  We were supposed to be leaving by this time.  Then she says "Yes, it's going to happen in 20 minutes".  Okay fine.  We were sitting around waiting, trying not to fall asleep.  It turns out the guy who is building the door (which is nowhere near complete) is supposed to take us.  In his personal car. It just barely squeezes the driver, myself, Dad, and a German couple.  So I guess needing a "few more people" to join the trip meant "we need to fill this guy's car that has 5 seats in order for this trip to happen."

So anyway, this guy that is supposed to be working on the door, Ariel,  leaves the other men to finish working and brings the car around.  We squeeze into the car and he calls his dog over, "Poncho", who then jumps over me and lays under the back window, paws on my shoulders, tongue in my face.  Fabulous.  Ariel turns up the Israeli rap music and we are off.  He was driving like a mad man.  I thought we were going to die a million times, but I didn't freak out because I was so distracted by the dog breathing heavily into my ear.  Before we knew it, we were in a military zone that ran alongside the Jordanian border. It was pitch black and Ariel pulled into a "parking space" which was really just a slab of concrete that juts out of the forest.  He told us that he can hear the pump going so we have to wait awhile for the spring to refill the pool.  He decided we should go for a walk!  In the dark!  "Does anyone have a flashlight?" he asked.  "Umm...no" we responded.  I didn't think that I would need my headlamp for a trip to the hot springs.  My bad.

So, here's the scene: we start on our walk, trying to navigate our way through the dark, trying to dodge pipes sticking out of the ground, broken fences, and poison ivy.  I guess Dad should've brought his hiking boots along on this trip.  During our walk,  Ariel shows us some interesting things.  We see an abandoned Syrian resort, graffiti covered walls, and other abandoned buildings littered with garbage.

"Any person who passes or damages the fence endangers his life". How comforting,

Poncho hanging out in one of the abandoned Syrian buildings while I think to myself "What is going on in my life right now?"

Thank goodness Dad's jacket provided some light during our "walk"

One of the many graffiti covered buildings

Eventually, he led us to the Roman Baths which were actually incredible.  They dated back to 100 AD and were still in amazing condition.  We got to see four pools, one that was Olympic size.  I would love to say that I took a hundred pictures and was able to picture what it would be like to be a Roman enjoying a nice bath on a hot day.  But, unfortunately, I was not allowed to take any pictures because Ariel was scared that a flash may draw attention from the security forces that guard the area.  I thought it was pretty sketch from the beginning because Ariel kept whispering, always speaking in hushed tones, and told us to stay out of well lit areas.  Turns out, yeah, it was definitely illegal for us to be there.

After our expedition, we walked by the hot spring and the pump was still going so Ariel said we couldn’t go in yet.  I guess this meant it was time to change into our bathing suits in the car!  We each took turns getting changed in the back of the tiny car. I was thankful, for once, that it was pitch black.  Afterwards, we just hung out by the car, freezing while waiting for the spring to stop so the water level would rise.  After 20 minutes of standing around, finally it stopped. 

Dad and I waiting outside after we'd changed...the fence behind us is the border fence separating Israel from Jordan

We walked to the spring and it was…well, it’s difficult to explain because I couldn’t see much.  All I could see was steam rising from what looked like a pool in the ruins of a building from many years ago.  There was no roof, the walls were covered in graffiti, and the “entrances” were just large chunks of the wall that no longer existed.  Again, there were no lights anywhere in order to keep security at bay.  I couldn’t even really see who was inside, just 20 shadows, half dressed, speaking in Hebrew, with steam rising in the air.  Above, the stars were shining.  First, I put my feet in the water and it was so hot I couldn’t keep them in for more than 3 seconds at a time.  Eventually, I waded in the water and got to enjoy the relaxation part that is supposed to be part of a hot spring experience.  It was there that I learned that the "floor" I was walking on was actually the remains of the roof that caved in from the building.  How wonderful!  Getting out was a challenge as it was pitch black and none of the locals really like to move out of the way for anyone.  Ever.  Dad and I had enjoyed our time, but we were ready to go.  The Germans, however, were having a bit of a romantic moment and made it clear that they weren’t ready to leave.  So there we were, standing in our bathing suits in an abandoned building, soaking wet, towels over our shoulder to keep us warm while everyone else went about their business as usual.  It was 11:00 PM and I was trying so hard not to fall asleep.  Thank goodness Poncho barked sporadically ensuring that I stayed awake.  Eventually, we made it back to our hostel and as soon as my head it the pillow I was out like a light.  Quite an experience!

Today, our plan was to see some of the places Jesus spent time while he lived and taught in Galilee.  Obviously, we had seen a lot of the Sea already (because we rode along it on the eastern side on our way to Kefar Szold, and we rode on the western side on our way to Tiberias).  However, we rode past a lot of signs that pointed to historical and archaeological sites that related to Jesus that we wanted to explore today. 

Our first stop was Magdalena.  This was a town that Jesus taught in and the home town of Mary Magdalene, follower and friend of Jesus.  She was the first one to see Jesus after the resurrection.  “She went and reported to those who had been with Him, while they were mourning and weeping. When they heard that He was alive and had been seen by her, they refused to believe it. “ (Mark 16:10-11).

In 2009, excavations began and archaeologists discovered a synagogue where Jesus taught, ruins of houses and city streets, and Jewish purification rooms.  It was clear that it was a bustling city in Jesus’ time.  After walking through the ruins, we were also able to go into the worship centre which was designed and decorated in such a way that it highlighted the events in Jesus’ life that occurred in the areas close to the Sea of Galilee.  I thought the altar was very interesting as it was a boat with a large cross.  This has been my favourite church that we have been to –lots of natural light, simple décor, and a window featuring the Sea of Galilee for the congregation to see.  There were also wonderful mosaics depicting well known events during the ministry of Jesus in Galilee.

Remnants of the synagogue where Jesus was said to have taught

Former city walls and streets

View of the Sea of Galilee

Worship Centre

Below are the mosaics I mentioned earlier.  Perhaps for some of you, these depictions will be familiar from scripture.

Jewish purification bath

Next, we were off to see the famous “Ancient Galilee Boat”.  This boat was reputed to be from 100 AD.  This boat is important because the archaeological evidence is consistent with the Biblical account of Jesus’ interaction with boats.  Unfortunately, when we arrived at the museum that housed the boat, it was not open to the public.  So that was a disappointment, but we got close!

On our way to Tagbha, we were able to get a good view of the Beatitudes Mount (or Sermon On The Mount location). 

Not the clearest picture, but you can see the Beatitude Mount it in the distance

In Tagbha, we saw two churches that featured rocks that were reported to be the site of Jesus feeding the 5,000 as well as the site where Peter and the disciples were eating breakfast when Jesus came to see them after His resurrection on the shores of the Sea of Galilee.

Feeding the 5,000 rock under the altar

Candles lit in prayer

Rock where Peter and the other disciples were said to be eating when they saw Jesus after the resurrection

Our final stop for the day was Capernaum.  This was known as “The Town of Jesus”.  Not only did Jesus live in Capernaum, but he also taught in the local synagogue.  We were able to see the synagogue that was built in the 4^th century (on top of the synagogue Jesus taught in).  We were also able to see Peter’s house which has been the focal point of many churches.  Today, a modern church hovers above the ruins of Peter’s original house.  Again, we were surrounded by beautiful views of the Sea of Galilee. 

City streets and walls of Capernaum

Modern church sitting atop Peter's original living quarters

Synagogue built on top of the original synagogue

The beautiful Sea of Galilee!

What is important about these sites and other archaeological evidence is not whether or not they are the exact location of events recorded during Jesus’ time there.  Instead, it is important to note that the archaeological evidence does not conflict with anything written in the Gospels.  Seeing that the towns not only existed and were places of habitation, but that they also were located in the geographical areas as described in the Bible indicates that the archaeological evidence actually supports the Biblical narrative.  So that’s pretty cool.

Once we had seen Capernaum, Dad decided he wanted to ride around the entire Sea of Galilee instead of, you know, being normal and just going back the same way we came.  I had seen everything I wanted to see and was very content to simply go back the way we came, so we decided to split up.  It was not my first choice.  I don’t like riding on the highway alone and, more than that, I worry about Dad being out on his own.  What if he gets lost?  What if he breaks his leg?  What if he hits his head on a rock and is laying on the side of the road unconscious?  These are all thoughts that run through my head.  However, Dad had made up his mind and I had made up mine.  He was more than happy to have some time alone, so we went our separate ways and met back at the hostel later. 

Dad’s most used expressions today were “You don’t have to come” and “You can do whatever you want”.  But what he’s really saying is “You can do whatever you want, but I’m not coming with you because I’m going to do what I want”.  In other words, “My way or the highway” became a literal situation for me today.  He went his way, and I took the highway.  So that’s fine.  I was able to navigate my way through the heavy traffic on a road without a shoulder to get back to the hostel without any issues.  I was kind of abandoned by Dad so, of course I made the best of the situation.  I mean, I wouldn’t say I’m a HERO or anything… an INSPIRATION maybe, but…I guess I’ve learned today that I’m still an independent woman who doesn’t need to do everything with her father. 

When I got back to the hostel, I had a shower, went out to cofix to get a coffee, and when I came back, I went to my room.  The receptionist (who I’d had several conversations with over the past 24 hours) knocked on the door and asked me if I was the girl who was cycling with her father.  I told her yes and she said “Sorry, I just didn’t recognize you in normal clothes and everything”.  I said “Yeah, this is what I look like when I’m clean”. 

Anyway, I waited at home for two hours before Dad got home and he went on and on and ON about how fabulous his ride was (according to him).  Highlights include: swimming in the Sea of Galilee (which I’m pretty sure is not allowed…), seeing a group of Americans(?) get baptized in the Jordan River, and the dedicated bike trail.

One of the views from Dad's ride

A little dip in the Sea!

I can only imagine how happy Dad was when he saw this

Group baptism in the Jordan!

We went for dinner at the same place we went yesterday.  Dad liked it so much that he decided we would go there again today.  Of course he said "You don't have to come if you don't want to" but what am I going to do, eat McDonald's on the side of the road by myself?  Come on. 

Tonight's appetizer

Happy camper

Tomorrow, we are hoping to cycle up to the top of Mount Tabor, the alleged site of Jesus’ transfiguration.  It’s 70 km and about 700m of elevation gain so…we’ll see.