Honorary Bedouins in Wadi Rum

Hello Everyone!

It is going to be very difficult to condense the past two days into one post because they were so full of amazing people and incredible experiences!  I took over 500 photos!  I will try to keep it short and sweet-just like our time in Wadi Rum.

Wadi Rum is a remote area of the desert in the south of Jordan adjacent to Saudi Arabia.  The landscape is characterized by flat, sand covered plain with huge rock formations.  This area of the desert is largely populated by Bedouins.  Bedouin tribesman are pastoralists who live in tents and move with their flocks of sheep and goats on a regular basis to new pastures once the current ones have been exhausted.  There are no roads, just tracks through the desert sand.  They depend on springs for their water and live off the land in all regards.  Only four wheel drive vehicles and camels are able to travel through the sand.  The landscape is strikingly beautiful since the sand is bright red which contrasts sharply with the dark brown sandstone rock formations which have an infinite number of patterns on the rock faces.  In 1917, Lawrence of Arabia came to this region to recruit Bedouin fighters to fight the Ottoman Turks.  We were able to see some of the places he lived while he was in the area.  We were going to be spending two nights at a Bedouin desert camp that's based on Bedouin family traditions.  The camp was able to host up to 25 people in 8 tents.  Both nights, we were the only guests.

As I mentioned, our camp is in the middle of the desert, so biking there was not the best option.  Remember how those two guys picked us up on the side of the road and drove us to Dana a few days ago?  Well, Ibraheem (the driver) kind of became "our guy" and has driven us wherever we needed to go, despite living in a different city.  He was very happy to drive us and he asked me to type in my name on facebook on his phone so he could add me.  I did so and accepted his request right away.  Then, as we are driving really fast down a foggy highway, my phone starts buzzing like crazy.  I'm getting notification after notification of Ibraheem liking my photos on facebook.  I wanted to say to him "Ibraheem, I appreciate your enthusiasm for my social media posts, but can it wait until you are parked??".  When he wasn't "liking" photos on my facebook page, he was taking pictures of me from inside his car while he drove and I rode.  He was the nicest and we certainly appreciated all that he did for us!

Our driver and friend, Ibraheem!

Taken by Ibraheem while driving

We were met by our hosts on the side of the road where we moved everything from Ibraheem's truck into theirs and we were on our way to the camp!  The camp is operated by three brothers: Salman, Ahmed, and Sulieman.  When we arrived at the camp, we immediately felt like part of the family.

View upon arrival

As is custom in Jordanian culture, we were immediately served tea upon arrival.  I need to take a moment to discuss Jordanians and their tea.  It is amazing.  Not only is the tea itself delicious (they pour a lot of sugar in the kettle with the tea as well as other spices such as sage so it is sweet, but strong with lots of body). but they are also SO COMMITTED to their tea.  They have it everywhere and they have it ALL THE TIME.  They serve it in very small glasses, so you have multiple glasses at every meal, in between meals, in the morning, at night, whenever possible!  As soon as we would finish one glass of tea, they would be up with the kettle pouring more.  It was one of my favourite parts of Jordanian culture and I will miss it!    

Dad's first cup of Wadi Rum tea

 It wasn't long before our first adventure of the day: camel riding.  It costs the same to go riding for two hours as it does for four hours, so of course Dad said we would go for four hours.  Most people go for one.  After twenty minutes, I was ready to ask our guide if side saddle was an option because my butt was HURTING.  However, the guide didn't speak English whatsoever and I knew Dad would not be getting off before our four hours was up, so I managed to figure out how to get comfortable and really enjoyed the ride!  It was also cool because this was not some touristy thing where people line up to get their picture taken and then get off after a few minutes.  Instead, it was more like "You want to ride camels?  I know a guy who has some camels and we can make that happen."  Anyway, it was a fabulous experience (Dad's highlight of the trip so far)!  What I liked most about it was how QUIET it was.  I can't remember the last time, I sat still for four hours listening to nothing but the wind.  Nobody was speaking, there was no music or technological devices to distract me from the pure beauty that surrounded me.  It was quite surreal.

This is me 90% of the time

Gotta stretch those legs when you get a chance!

Mama and baby camel!

Tired camels at sunset

That night, we had a famous Jordanian dish: Mansaf.  It is rice with parsley, nuts, chicken or lamb, and a special yogurt/milky sauce.  We ate it in the traditional Bendouin style which is basically a bunch of people around a giant dish digging in!  Dad and I used a spoon (couldn't quite get to the point where I was using my hand, but maybe in time I'll get there).  It was delicious and, of course, followed by lots of tea.  We spent a lot of time talking to a girl named Lucy from Europe (who is dating Ahmed).  She has traveled to many different places and it was very interesting to hear her stories.

Ahmed preparing the meal

A little chaotic!

On our second day, we went on a walk in the morning.  Well, what we consider a walk, but the locals call a "hike".  We stayed on the flat ground the whole time (except for when Dad was convinced that we were supposed to climb up a bunch of rocks because it HAD to be the right way...he was wrong).  It was still a great way to see some more of the landscape and get some exercise!

The little bit of green we saw!

The "path" Dad was convinced was the way.  "Oh yeah, this is definitely the way."

"Hmm....maybe not,  I'm going to go explore."

"Okay, you go do that and I'll take a selfie"

Our second activity for the day was a jeep tour.  This would give us a chance to see much more of the desert than what was within walking (or camel) distance.  Sulieman was our guide and, though his English was not great, we had a fabulous time and he took us to see some amazing places.  These pictures may seem a little random, but they will show you bits and pieces of our day!

Remains of Lawrence of Arabia's house

Wadi Rum is full of sheep and camels

Climbing up to the top of the famous stone arch

We made it to the top of the arch!

Our view looking down!

At the top

Climbing down the arch

Bedouin use the sand to protect their face from the sun!  Now I am a true Bedouin!

We finished off the day by watching the sun set at the most popular place in Wadi Rum.  It was a Friday, so there were lots of people out to see it.  Our guide came prepared: he made a fire AND BROUGHT EVERYTHING REQUIRED FOR MAKING TEA.  So, there we were in the desert drinking tea by the fire while the sun set.  It was pretty fantastic.

Another Lawrence of Arabia site

Making tea in the middle of nowhere! #casual

Friends drinking tea and watching the sun set

My favourite!

That night, we ate goat which was prepared in a very interesting way.  They basically use every part of the goat and put it in a BBQ.  Then, they bury it and cover it with sand.  They let it sit for a few hours and then pull it out just before dinner time!  I don't usually consider myself a goat lover, but it was quite tasty!

Sorry for the graphic image, but.,..here's the goat

 I don't want to leave you with  a dead goat as the last picture, so instead I'll leave you with one of my favourite pictures of all time: DAD SMOKING SHISHA!!!!

He did it!

Overall, we had a fabulous time in Wadi Rum and have thoroughly enjoyed our time in Jordan in general.  I don't know of another country where I have felt so welcome.  I'm not sure how Israel is going to top this, but I"m sure it will come with its own unique adventures and experiences.  I hope these pictures have given you a taste of what we experienced, and if you ever have a chance to go to Jordan, go!!!

That's it for now! 

Annika